Around the Bend

 

Text and Photos by Jeneen R. Garcia

 

 

People who go down southeast on Cebu’s scenic coastal road--perhaps to take the ferry across to Negros, perhaps to rest in one of the seaside towns, to come home to family and the sound of the waves--if they go far enough, will come to a bend in the road.

 

It is a bend so unlike any other in these parts that those who have gone around this bend are sure to know exactly which one I am talking about. For those who have not, let me tell you about it.

 

Just before you reach this bend, you come down the road right next to a cliff, which is right next to the sea, blue-green turning abruptly deep blue where the reef drops into the Bohol Strait. The water can be calm or ferocious against the rocks, depending on what month it is. On a clear day, you can see Bohol on the edge of the horizon.

 

The bend itself is marked by a high limestone wall on one side, and the sea on the other. Morning light rises slowly over this bend. The road is shaded by the green of trees. It is a restful passage.

 

As you make the turn, you will come upon a quaint town nestled in a cove. When you do, you will have found one of Cebu’s most precious treasures: Boljoon.

 

Boljoon is a fishing town about two and a half hours away from the city. Fishing boats dock on its orange shores after the full and new moons to bring hundreds of tons of fish that will then be brought to different towns in southern Cebu.

 

Its wide coves give sanctuary to the smaller bancas reaping a rich harvest from its waters. Two fish sanctuaries, one on each end of the town, keep this harvest abundant year-round, like guarded gates keeping a secret wealth. On the west, steep hills protect Boljoon from strong winds.

 

It is here, between the calm of the sea and the constancy of the hills, that you find Boljoon’s 407-year old parish still watching over the town’s inhabitants. With its thick, limestone walls, distinct baroque architecture, and murals painted by the master artists of its time, the church was made both a National Cultural Treasure and National Historical Landmark by the Philippine government.

 

The adjoining convent has been turned into a museum, while still serving as quarters for the workers in the church. The old wooden school still stands outside, now a place for the band to practice. On its large lawn are bell towers that used to warn the town of invaders. Now, the bells still toll, but only to invite the residents to hear mass.

 

What has not changed, though, is obvious from the vantage point of the hills, easiest to climb of which is Eli Hill, just before you reach the town proper. This same view you can see painted on the ceiling of the convent, Boljoon as it must have looked to the artist hundreds of years ago.

 

The paint is faded, but the figures are still distinguishable. Fishing boats sail on the calm water, as people dressed in typical Spanish fashion walk on the orange shores of a cove. A flock of birds flies over some hills. In the distance, the church, and further beyond--an unmistakable bend in the road.

 

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how to get there. Take the Bato-Oslob bus at the South Bus Terminal and get off at Boljoon. Buses leave every 15 minutes.

 

where to stay. Cebu Club Fort Med, right across the bend in the road, is a cozy resort with facilities for teambuilding sessions, diving, and island-hopping. Call 482-9050 to 51, or 262-9147 for reservations. For more information, log on to www.cebu-clubfortmed.com.